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MICRODERMABRASION VS CHEMICAL PEELS
When microdermabrasion and chemical peels are mentioned in the same breath, it's usually to debate the merits of using one versus the other. We believe both are beneficial to the health and appearance of the skin, and will explain how to combine them both for a better result.
What Are Chemical Peels?
A chemical peel is a topical solution that causes the outermost layer of the skin to separate and peel off from the supporting layer. This results in smoother looking, less wrinkled skin.
Chemical peels come in a range of strengths:
- AHAs and glycolic acid peels are light chemical peels. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are naturally occurring acids: glycolic acid, derived from sugar cane, and lactic acid, derived from sour milk and tomato juice.
Beta hydroxy acid (BHA), while weaker than AHA, is sometimes preferable for more severe skin problems as it penetrates deeper into the pore.
- TCA or Trichloroacetic acid peels are medium strength peels in concentrations ranging from 20-50%.
- Phenol (or Phenol/Croton oil) peel is a deep chemical peel usually performed in a doctor's office under general anesthestic.
When they were first introduced to the mass market in the 1980s, chemical peels were extremely popular. They offered a real alternative to plastic surgery and most major cosmetics companies quickly introduced an AHA product. Chemical peels are still popular today, although there has been a significant shift to technology-based treatments like microdermabrasion and IPL.
Comparing Microdermabrasion With Chemical Peels
The biggest difference between microdermabrasion and chemical peels is the range of problems they address. Chemical peels, especially AHAs, work specifically on the surface of the skin. Like microdermabrasion they target problems such as age spots, acne, wrinkles, dry skin and sun damaged skin. But microdermabrasion has some additional benefits:
- It stimulates blood flow for faster cell turnover.
- It promotes lymph drainage, thereby taking a load off the skin's detoxifying function and improving its efficiency and appearance.
- It stimulates the production of collagen.
- It promotes thickening of aging skin.
Chemical peels don't address these issues.
Combining Microdermabrasion With Chemical Peels
Beauty therapists can utilize chemical peels as part of their microdermabrasion treatments. Once a client has had 2-3 microdermabrasion sessions, their skin may be ready for a lactic acid peel prior to the dermabrasion process. The chemical peel loosens the dead layers of skin so that when the therapist abrades, she achieves a much deeper peel.
The combined approach works well with most clients, but is not advisable for clients with sensitive skins. This is another situation where the therapist's diagnostic skills are crucial.
For more information on microdermabrasion, click on microdermabrasion articles.
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